Heritage Corn Craft Whiskey’s Final Frontier? Having tapped the bounty of heirloom grains, distillers are turning to the unexplored diversity of heritage corn to add nuance to their whiskeys.
JUNE 6, 2018 story: KARA NEWMAN
Once upon a time, nobody cared for whiskey being made with Rye, Corn or Wheat...
Now people are into details. What kind of corn?
Just a little over a century ago, hundreds of varieties of corn grew across the fields of the United States.
Today, almost all corn-based whiskey, including bourbon, is sourced from a single type of corn. But some craft distillers are trying to revive those ancient strains, creating spirits with greater nuance by stretching back to the past.
This sort of obsessiveness has become a feature of the craft whiskey movement. But even as producers increase their focus on the sourcing of grainslike ancient strains of rye, and even how they’re malted, corn remains the last frontier.
See, article Souce below for more details ...
That reminds me, that in 2015 I revived the concept of 1870 cognac by producing a cognac 'à la pre-phylloxera way' that is using single grape 'Folle Blanche', single cask, vintage and why not from Bons Bois with a higher proof which is looked down for no real reasons besides commercial reasons. I did not do high proof or cask strength because one as to go with baby steps. All of this was too much at once and it was wise to get a few great and 'good old' concepts first and later we will see!
Meet Comandon Cognac 2012 Single Cask Folle Blanche from Bons Bois 41.3% Alc/Vol.
Only 120 bottles were released in the USA and we sold them all to aficionados who were paying attention.
Hennessy is trying to capitalize on the bourbon whiskey boom by making a cognac that emulates the tasting notes of a bourbon, a new cognac called the 'Master Blender's Selection' = MBS.
According to adult beverage research firm IWSR, sales of super-premium bourbon increased 28.8 percent from 2011 to 2015. Meanwhile, comparable cognac sales increased 9.5 percent.
A more biting 43 percent ABV, a distillation with high levels of lees, not just fermented juice but skins too. Tastings show more spices and long finish with candied apricot and almond notes, and rugged square bottle shape.
Hennessy MBS 1, Bourbon Like
Another particularity of MBS, is that these cognacs are supposed to be one-off production. This goes against the tradition of making consistent cognac made the same year-after-year.
This is a great idea, and I expect a number 2 and 3 and so forth...
Master Blender’s Selection No. 1 will be available in 375ml ($45) and 750ml ($80) sizes, with a total case run of 9,300, sold exclusively in the U.S. When it’s gone, it’s gone.
Until recently, the U.S. market was largely an afterthought for Pernod Ricard’s Martell Cognac brand, which has long focused on China. But last year, Martell grew 33% to just under 100,000 cases in the U.S., and now Pernod is ramping up innovation activity to expand the brand’s U.S. audience.
Martell is now looking to leverage robust trends in both Cognac and Bourbon with a new hybrid product, Blue Swift ($50), which is hitting select U.S. cities now ahead of a full national rollout in January. The newcomer is a Martell VSOP finished in Kentucky Bourbon barrels for five to seven months, and represents the first in a series of new products that
Martell has in the pipeline. The new expression will target the on-premise, aimed at being a bridge into Cognac for Bourbon drinkers.
Martell Blue Swift 1st edition 2016
In 1783, Martell was the first to ship its barrels of cognac to the United States. Today, Martell celebrates this history with another first : introducing Martell Blue Swift, the first-ever Martell VSOP matured in French Oak casks and finished in Kentucky Bourbon casks.
Martell’s signature process of distilling cognacs free of impurities leave it open to absorbing the rich aromatic tones from the bourbon cask. The result is Martell’s hallmark cognac style redefines the boundaries of cognac.
"The House of Martell has always proudly launched disruptive products, reinventing the standards through new blends, new designs and even new territories," said Brian Smith, Brand Director, Marketing, Martell, Pernod Ricard USA. "Martell Blue Swift is a product born out of the power of curiosity, and we look to celebrate those who embody and share our curious spirit with the release of our latest innovation."
Finishing Martell Cognac VSOP in Kentucky Bourbon casks, Martell Blue Swift is unlike any other spirit on the market. Martell's signature cognac distillation process allows for the absorption of rich aromatic tones from the bourbon casks, adding to the richness of the finished product. The delicate notes of candied fruit and plum, found in Martell VSOP, are complemented by the subtle sweetness of vanilla and toasted oak from the bourbon casks from Kentucky. The result is a supremely unique spirit that is exceptionally smooth with a rounded taste and distinct character that can be enjoyed neat, on the rocks or in classic cocktails.
The Martell Blue Swift bottle pays homage to Martell's iconic swift emblem, a bird with the unique and rare ability to fly for exceptionally long distances, crossing over the Atlantic Ocean twice a year. The bottle takes on the shape of both cognac and bourbon casks and the elaborate "cut-glass" detail on its base evoking classic crystal decanters.
Martell Blue Swift will be exclusively available in select U.S. markets including Atlanta, Baltimore, Chicago, Detroit, Houston and Washington D.C. this October with a suggested retail price of $49.99.
TASTING NOTES ===>To the eye We can admire an elegant coppery color with golden glints.
===>On the nose We first notice gourmet aromas such as banana and caramelized pears. Then a subtle sweetness appears, and notes of vanilla & coconut mixed with spicy and menthol are revealed.
===>In the mouth It is soft, round and gourmand. We taste deep and fresh notes of ginger and white candied fruits such as plums.
We then feel the ample, smooth and long toasted oak finish from Kentucky Bourbon casks.
Serving Martell Blue Swift is a Cognac VSOP finished in Bourbon casks to enjoy on its own, over ice, lengthened with a mixer or as a cocktail.
We have all witnessed the growth of craft beers, craft wines and now crafts spirits. Craft and Artisan Spirits are trendy and so trendy that many brands are claiming to be craft brands or handmade in small batch etc. Even mega large distributors/wholesalers have started 'artisan' and 'craft spirit' portfolio and sales departments.
However, I have mostly personally witnessed a bandwagon effect and a me-too follow up on this.
Fictitious Flavored Spirits
Within the past months a few brands have been under scrutiny about the true statement of being small-batch or craft made. All in all it is catchy marketing and it is hard to decipher what is crafty or handmade or not. At some stage someone had to use their hands in the process and therefore ...
In closely watched case, Tito’s plans to contest lawsuit against its “handmade” claim says Shanken News Daily. Drinks marketers are likely reevaluating their label claims in the wake of a lawsuit against Tito’s Handmade Vodka for the 1.3-million-case brand’s claim of being “Handmade.” The suit, filed September 15 2014 in San Diego Superior Court.
A pair of class-action lawsuits filed this month against craft distillers has exposed what many consider the worst-kept secret in craft distilling: Despite the marketing, most liquor is factory-made"says The Denver Post.
Whisky and American Whiskey /Bourbon are faced with the same dilemma: huge demand growth and limited amount of producers, hence the growing number of bottlers trying to claim all kind of things.
For this matter, 'cognac' benefits from a strict controlled appellation. Not only the grapes, but the way the grapes are crushed, the fermentation process, distillation, etc. and another 1000 things are regulated to ensure the quality of the claims. Eventually ALL cognac is by definition produced in small-batch and handmade. However, since 90% or more is blended and distributed by a few brands the end result is mostly processed through large standardizing factories to ensure a repeatable product day after day.
My recommendation read the article from The Denver Post asap!
The Liquor.com website caught my attention today as they mentioned that: "Irish whisky drinkers have St. Patrick’s Day and bourbon drinkers have the Kentucky Derby, but what do Scotch drinkers have? Burns Night. The holiday, which is tonight, celebrates the birth of Scotland’s national poet, Robert Burns, back in 1759. Honor the man by trying one of these new single malts."
When I lived in Scotland I was lucky enough to acquire a book published in the mid-1800s from Robert Burns and signed in the 1990s by a descendant of Burns. So I know exactly what they are talking about.
Robert Burns and Scotch
Then, I thought what would be cognac day? Or rather cognac night?
Cognac has the blues festival. Or they have the cognac festival. But these are really more local events and public festivals. They have the Summit and la Part des Anges ... but these are more industry events and celebrations.
So the equivalent of Robert Burns in Cognac might be Odette Comandon who was a popular actress and story teller from the 50s to the 80s, and become director of the Académie de Saintonge. She exemplify, the Cognac and regional identity as she was a perfect speaker of the local language called 'patois saintongeais', that is the local dialects.
Or is it Francois Mitterrand, enigmatic President of France from 1981 to 1995. I think this personality might be too politically loaded and therefore not so universal.
Perhaps, Francois 1er (1494 – 1547), born in the city of Cognac and King of France (1515-1547). I think he is a significant person in the history of cognac, but perhaps Francois 1er is too emblematic of the history of the city of Cognac, and cognac cannot be summarized by something to do with the city of Cognac only. In other words, perhaps Francois 1er is not inclusive enough.
What about Bastille Day? Really, it is too generic.
Should cognac night be in winter?
Most people think cognac is a winter drink. This is wrong. Try this. Ginger ale, ice cubes and a little drop of VS cognac and voila, the ultimate summer quencher. So cognac night would not have to be in winter.
If anybody has any suggestions please just comment as I am out of ideas.
